Rigging the Red (Radial) Laser
1. Remove the cover, find a clear space for rigging and turn the nose of the Laser into the wind.
2. Join the top and bottom sections of the mast, slide on the sail and put in the battons. Note that the battons should be slid in through the slit which is about one c.m. in from the edge of the sail (not the slit right on the edge of the sail). A flap of sail then holds the batton in place.

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3. Hold the mast like a pole-vaulting pole over your shoulder. Approach from upwind with the top of the mast pointing behind you diagonally upwards into the wind. Locate the base of the mast in the mast step (hole) and let the wind help to lift it upright until you can fully locate it.
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4. Fit the boom end onto the gooseneck. While holding the boom in place on the gooseneck, slip the metal hook at the other end of the boom through the eye at the rear of the sail. Hold the sail close to the boom using the tie-down velcro slap which passes through the clew eye and round the boom (careful not to trap the grey outhaul line - that should run ourside the clew tie-down strap).

5. Now you can attach the fitting on the top of the kicking strap to the slot on the underside of the boom. Carefully take all the twists out of the kicker (so it runs smoothly) before you attach it. You will need to push down on the boom to be able to do this. If you are light you may need someone to help you. Don't take this step unless you have the clew of the sail tied down as in 4.

6. Stand on the starboard side of the boat and take hold of the outhaul line (that runs along the boom). Thread the end of the rope through the small block by the gooseneck then through the small block nearest to you at the mast step and then through the fairlead of the deck cleat nearest to you. Tie a rope handle.
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7. Stand on the port side of the boat. Locate the slippery thin light-blue part of the cunningham line. This has a loop on the end. Pass the loop through the cunningham hole from the side of the sail closest to you then back down the other side of the sail but between the sail and the boom.  Locate the pin with quick release clip on the top of kicker. Remove the pin part-way in order to slip it through the loop, then replace the clip. Now take the other end of the cunningham line and thread it through the small block close to the mast-step and then through the fairlead of the remaining deck cleat. Tie a rope handle.
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8. Using the plastic clip on the end of the shockcord (which holds the centreboard in place) run the shockcord around the port side of the mast and temporarily attach it to the cunningham line between the mast step block and the deck cleat. This will keep the clip in a handy position for attaching to the centreboard when launching.

9. Place the centreboard carefully in the cockpit. Locate the tail of the kicker (thin red rope about a metre long) and thread the end through the small hole at the top front corner of the centreboard. Tie a stopper knot in the end. (Attaching the tail here means that you can always reach the kicker handle.)

10. The rudder and tiller/extension are permanently attached together. With the rudder blade horizontal pass the tiller/extension under the traveller rope. Then with the blade upright locate the pins of the rudder on the two transom brackets until it clicks into place. Tilt the blade of the rudder upwards so that it doesn't drag on the ground when you take the boat to the beach.

11. Finally, standing on the port side of the boat locate the red mast retaining line which hangs down from the gooseneck. Thread the end through the deck fitting to which the nearside mast-step block is attached. Tie the line leaving enough slack to be able to pull the centre of the line about ten inches from the mast.
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Launching

12. Get someone to help you with launching unless you are very familiar with it. With the boat in the water and the trailer returned to shore, stand just forward of the midpoint of the beam to hold the boat head to wind. Wrap the long line from the bow (painter) round the mast and through the bow eye several times until you can tie it off with a couple of half-hitches.

13. Slide the centreboard into its slot about 1/2 to 2/3 down but making sure it does not touch the bottom. Remove the shockcord clip from the cunningham line and clip it to the loop of line that passes through the top front hole in the centreboard. (Ensure the "gate" of the clip faces down to avoid other lines getting caught.)

14. Ensuring the boat is head to wind, move quickly backwards to push the rudder blade half down and then move rapidly back to your previous position before the bow of the boat blows sideways. Sheet in and, as the sail takes up the wind pressure, climb aboard to start on a close-beam reach. When clear of the shore, ease the sheet and - keeping the tiller amidships - reach back to push the rudder right down and fasten the downhaul line to the tiller.


De-rigging

15. Ensure the rudder downhaul is loosened as you approach the shore and the rudder is back to the half-down position. Raise the centreboard to avoid grounding it as you near the beach.

16. Once ashore, reverse the rigging steps ensuring that you do not undo any permanent knots (usually covered with black tape). Wrap the clew tie-down strap around the boom to avoid loss. Put everything else, other than the sail, back in the cockpit. Ensure that the bailer is left in the shut position. Replace the cover and tie the boat down. Check around to make sure you haven't left anything. With help, fold the sail, place it back in the red bag and return it to the cupboard. Make sure the cupboard is left locked. If the sail is wet then spread it out in the garage but make sure you contact me to let me know you couldn't lock it away.


David Pocock
3.4.06